The Art of Slow Luxury: Why Oudh 1722 is More Than Just a Meal
There’s something deeply satisfying about a restaurant that doesn’t just serve food but tells a story. Oudh 1722, Chef Aktar Islam’s London debut, is one such place. Personally, I think what makes this spot particularly fascinating is how it manages to be both a homage to the past and a bold statement about the future of fine dining. It’s not just about the food—though, trust me, the food is extraordinary—it’s about the experience, the history, and the audacity to bring a 300-year-old culinary tradition into the heart of modern London.
Awadhi Cuisine: Slow, Luxurious, and Misunderstood
Let’s start with the cuisine itself. Awadhi cooking, rooted in the Nawabi era of 1722, is often misunderstood. What many people don’t realize is that this isn’t your typical Indian fare. It’s not about heat or speed; it’s about subtlety, patience, and luxury. The slow-cooked dishes, aromatic spices, and meticulous presentation are a world away from the grab-and-go curries we’re used to. In my opinion, this is where Oudh 1722 truly shines. It’s not trying to be trendy or accessible; it’s unapologetically finicky, and that’s what makes it so compelling.
Take the lamb shorba, for example. A traditional welcome broth poured over lamb tartare—it’s a dish that demands your attention. Or the gol guppa, those delicate spheres filled with moong shoots and edible flowers. You’re supposed to pop the whole thing in your mouth, which feels almost sacrilegious given their beauty. But that’s the point: Awadhi cuisine is about indulgence, about savoring every moment.
The Modern-Ancient Dichotomy
One thing that immediately stands out about Oudh 1722 is its ability to balance the ancient and the modern. The menu is a dance between tradition and innovation. On one hand, you have dishes like nihari, an ox cheek stew cooked overnight, a recipe that’s been passed down for generations. On the other, there’s the influence of Chef George Cooke, whose background at Brat and Noble Rot brings a contemporary edge to the kitchen.
This duality extends to the space itself. Housed in a listed Victorian townhouse near Borough Market, the restaurant feels like a time capsule. The narrow staircases, hidden anterooms, and attic bar all add to its charm. What this really suggests is that Oudh 1722 isn’t just a restaurant; it’s a living, breathing piece of history. It doesn’t try to erase the past—it embraces it, warts and all.
The Michelin Chase vs. the Midriff Expansion
Here’s where things get interesting. Oudh 1722 is clearly aiming for Michelin stars, and it has the pedigree to back it up. But what makes this particularly fascinating is that it doesn’t sacrifice generosity for precision. The portions are enormous, the flavors are bold, and the experience is indulgent. It’s not just about impressing critics; it’s about feeding people—both their stomachs and their souls.
The mutanjan dam biryani is a perfect example. A mountain of fragrant rice topped with slow-cooked oxtail and sweet carrot, it’s a dish that feels like a feast. Personally, I left with a doggy bag, not because I couldn’t finish it, but because I wanted to prolong the experience. This raises a deeper question: Can a restaurant be both Michelin-worthy and deeply satisfying? Oudh 1722 says yes.
The Bar: A Hidden Gem
Let’s not forget the bar, which deserves its own spotlight. Upstairs, you’ll find cocktails that are as thoughtful as the food. The mango chutney margarita is a stroke of genius, blending sweetness with a tangy kick. And the brandy-based old fashioned with stone fruit? It’s the kind of drink you’ll still be thinking about the next day.
What many people don’t realize is that the bar is more than just a place to grab a drink. It’s an extension of the restaurant’s philosophy—a space where tradition meets innovation. It’s also a nod to the building’s history, which once housed hatmakers and later, the restaurant Lupins. If you take a step back and think about it, it’s a metaphor for Oudh 1722 itself: a place that respects its past while boldly moving forward.
Why This Matters
In a city like London, where new restaurants open and close with alarming frequency, Oudh 1722 feels like a rarity. It’s not just another spot to grab a meal; it’s an experience, a journey through time and taste. What this really suggests is that fine dining doesn’t have to be pretentious or inaccessible. It can be warm, generous, and deeply personal.
From my perspective, Oudh 1722 is more than a restaurant—it’s a statement. It’s a reminder that food can be both art and comfort, history and innovation. It’s a place where you can indulge in a blowout feast while learning about a culinary tradition that’s been around for centuries.
Final Thoughts
As I sat there, savoring the ras malai—a dessert so delicate it felt like eating a cloud—I couldn’t help but think about how rare it is to find a restaurant that gets everything right. Oudh 1722 isn’t perfect, but that’s part of its charm. It’s ambitious, sincere, and unapologetically itself.
If you’re ever in London and find yourself facing the 4,000-person waiting list at Gymkhana, do yourself a favor and head to Oudh 1722 instead. It’s not just a meal—it’s an experience, a story, and a feast for the senses. Personally, I think it’s one of the most exciting restaurant openings in years. And as a greedy person who appreciates both history and good food, I can’t wait to go back.
Oudh 1722, 66 Union Street, London SE1. Open Weds-Sat, lunch noon-2.30pm, dinner 5.30-9.30pm, Sun lunch only noon-5pm. From about £40 a head à la carte, plus drinks & service.
